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I probably made it sound worse than it really is. The gap is on the curved end of the butt. Very difficult cut to get perfect. Stupid Fender necks. Lol.
oh. I was thinking that the pocket was too wide rather than the curve of the butt end.
It's looking fantastic as far as I'm concerned, the trial and error process with scrap wood was very important as you now know. This is your first attempt and any mistakes you make now won't happen on your next guitar, Stradivari's first violin is just a cigar box with a broom handle nailed to it. Have you screwed the neck on yet? If not you need a neck plate, go for the six screw hole model for super stability, place it on the back of the neck socket and Mark the holes then clamp the neck in place and drill the holes using a 1/8“ drill bit, a drill stand is the best way to do this but if you don't have one make sure you drill as straight as possible, and remember only to go half way into the thickness of the neck! Once the neck is bolted on place the bridge 34” away from the nut, that's 34" from nut to the middle saddle making sure there's equal room for adjustment on all five saddles, use your straight edge on either side of the neck to make sure it's in the correct position, have fun
are you keeping track on how much you are spending?
The neck I bought was pre-drilled. I just ordered my neck plate, tuning machines, jack, strap locks, and electronics cover plate. Should be delivered by end of the week.
I have a good idea of how much I've spent so far. At the end of the project I'll dig up all the invoices and itemize everything.
So far I think I've spent about $550. I still need my pickups and electronics.
My whole spend was about £150. How will you transfer the position of the existing hole to the neck socket?
I'm hoping my next bass project wont cost as much. Because this was my first attempt I didn't want to try and build a neck on my own. I paid a hefty price of $400 for a top quality fretless neck.
For my next project I will attempt to make my own 4-string maple neck. I figure those material costs with a truss rod should be far less than $400.
As far as matching up the existing neck holes to the socket, I will put some putty on both sides of the neck plate and then line the neck plate up to the heel of the neck on the existing holes. Then I'll position the neck in the socket and press the neck down hopefully enough to adhere the putty to the socket to keep the base plate in position. Then I'll mark the holes and drill. If the plate moves around too much in that process, I'll see about getting some hardware that can be placed in the existing neck holes but protrude out enough to make indentations into the neck socket to drill my holes.
In hindsight I should not have bought a neck with pre-drilled holes. Lesson learned. But I'll see what I can do.
Marko - I need to order my electronics soon. I think I know the pickups I'm going to use. Two soapbars.
This will be a passive bass, just to keep things simple, but I am absolutely clueless on the potentiometers and pre-amp electronic stuff I'll need. Any recommendations?
So here's a little bit of forum interactive fun with this project…
I'll let you all decide what color I should finish this bass with. I don't want to paint it, because I want to let the alder grain show. So I'm wanting to stain it and then poly it for a shine.
All the hardware (bridge, knobs, tuning machines, strap locks, jack) are gold. The nut is black, and the truss cover on the neck is black.
So what color stain should I use?
I was originally wanting something blue. But I'll ask you all for your thoughts and input.
So what color would you go with?
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