Tech Guys

Another way would be to place the neck heel onto some of the paper we used for the plans then cut around it with a craft knife. Next flip the neck over and with the paper cut-out perfectly lined up on the back of the heel, pierce through the paper with a sharp pencil through the pre drilled holes in the neck. Now lay the paper in the socket, the side you pierced facing down, and mark the holes, Bosh. As for translucent colours, go back to Warmoth.com and search for Re-Ranch Paints, aswell as doing vintage paint kits for say, Telecaster Blonde or Stratocaster 3 tone burst, they do dozens of custom colours and it all comes in aerosol if thats what you require. Keeping the wiring simple lets go with the Jazz Bass layout, two vols and one tone and no selector switch. You will need two 250K log pots for volume for single coils, or two 500K log pots for volume for Humbuckers. You can use a 250K log pot for the tone or you can use a tone boost pre-amp that directly replaces the tone pot, this is what I used on my bass, it has a push/pull action for active and passive and requires a 9 volt battery, I made my control cavity large enough to accept the battery or you can use a seperate battery holder. You will also need a 0.02 mfd capacitor and a jack socket. Buy a metre of cable, {from Warmoth, the type that has an insulated ‘Live’ core and braided ‘Ground’, its cheap so a metre will last a long time. Get back to me before you cut out the cavity. PS, get potentiometers with extra long threaded shafts, where they come through the body will be thicker than a scratchplate.

I'm a fan of EMGs, with the JB set up theres no need for a toggle switch as you can turn a pick up on or off with the volume knob

Marko, I have a question about setting the bridge at 34“. You said to have the 34” measurement from the inside of the nut to the middle of the saddle.

What if your saddles are staggered like mine?





I included a pic of the back to show each saddle has Allen nuts staggered into the bridge base.

I messed up Marko.

Buying a neck with pre-drilled holes was a big mistake. I was able to finally get the base plate, body, and neck to align but the result is now the neck is off center.

I've already bored the holes out a bit on the body to allow for some adjustment. I don't want to mess with it any further because I need wood to hold it on strong.

So what this means is the center line on the body is off about 3/32 of an inch at the bottom. Probably nothing anyone would notice at first glance, but it bothers me. But at this point I am just going to chalk it up as lessons learned and press on.

I have a little sanding to do on the neck mount to get things straight still.







It's also obvious that I need to be careful routing my corners on the back end of this around the neck socket.

All is good. I didn't trust my pencil lines as being true center on the neck and body, so I got out a string and used that to see if everything was how it should be.

It's dead center.

I feel better now.