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Marko1960
Posts: 3144

10 years ago
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Routing around horns with a hand held router leaves very little contact surface for the router bass, this leads to wobbles and disaster, a router table does away with that. My mistakes haven't been too costly as I got the timber for free and I've managed to sort out the cock ups. One interesting point, when I've hit a wall I've thought, I'll just enter it into Talk Bass's build a bass for under 100 dollars, which I could easily do but I keep on keeping on. Remember, quitters never win and winners never quit

Marko1960
Posts: 3144

9 years ago
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Here you go 2nick3

Marko1960
Posts: 3144

9 years ago
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RIGHT, that's it God Dammit! The search for some nice maple veneer for the top has held this project up for too long, when I finally find some I can't justify shelling out fifty quid, I haven't spent that much on the progress so far, so it's gonna be black.
Black body, black hardware, black neck, black nylon wound strings even! Only the cream binding to the top edge, the frets and the chrome knobs will stand out.

IamMark
Posts: 1103

9 years ago
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How's this coming Marko?

Marko1960
Posts: 3144

9 years ago
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Still the same, haven't touched it for 3 months

IamMark
Posts: 1103

9 years ago
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Better hurry before the rainy-er season settles in for you.

Marko1960
Posts: 3144

9 years ago
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Its nice and sunny right now

IamMark
Posts: 1103

9 years ago
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Quote:

Its nice and sunny right now

Then you should be working on this bass.

Marko1960
Posts: 3144

9 years ago
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I'm working on a bungalow renovation for a customer at the moment, loft conversion, re-wire, boarding and plastering, new bathrooms and kitchen etc etc, bass on back burner

Leiria
Posts: 330

9 years ago
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I assume this is the place to ask: If I wanted to buy a bass to de-fret what characteristics should that bass have? Like for example does fretboard wood matter much? The factory fretlesss I see all usually have the same. And other than that is there anything I should know?

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